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2013 Luxury Goods Worldwide Market
Study
(12th Edition)

October, 2013

This information is confidential and was prepared by Bain & Company solely for the use of our client; it is not to be relied on by any 3rd party without Bain's prior written consent
Luxury consumption spans across several categories
Cars
Yachts

Design

Wines &
Spirits
Personal
Luxury
goods

Hôtellerie

Food

2
The first moderation since 2009 financial turmoil; luxury
market leaves behind double-digit growth
WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (1995-2013E|€B)
Sept 11

SARS $/€

Subprime &
financial crisis

Socio-Economic
Turbulence

2%
10%
11%
13%

3
Euro fluctuations have penalized market performance in
2013, despite real growth outpacing 2012
WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND
@ CURRENT AND CONSTANT EXCHANGE RATES (2011-2013E|€B)

@ current
exchange rate

+10%

+2%

@ constant
exchange rate

+5%

+6%

8% US dollar appreciation
8% Yen appreciation
11% Yuan appreciation

3% US dollar devaluation
20% Yen devaluation
1% Yuan devaluation

4
The Japanese yen devaluation is driving over half of the
differential between real and nominal growth
WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET GROWTH
@ CURRENT AND CONSTANT EXCHANGE RATES (2013E|%)

5
The holiday season is expected to be in line with the full
year performance
BASE SCENARIO

Worldwide
Personal Luxury
Goods 2013
Scenarios €B

+2%

Main assumption

• Holiday season recovering
from a very bad 3rd quarter
but remaining below 1st
quarter performance (+2%
vs last year)

Assumed
Probability

80%

BEST SCENARIO

+3%

• Holiday season in line with
1st quarter, highest for
growth (+4 % vs last year)

20%
6
What is happening in the Personal Luxury Goods Market?
“5 W’s” for analyzing 2012-2013 performance
WHEN

Trends by quarter
WHAT’S NEXT?

WHERE

Market incoming
trends

Trends by channel and
geographic area

WHO

WHAT

Trends by consumer
segment and nationality

Trends by product
category

7
After a first quarter more in line with 2012 holidays,
second and third quarter 2013 are close to stagnation

WHEN

WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (2011-2013E|€B)
€/$

1,28

1,31

negative
impact on
nominal growth

1,25
positive

1,32
negative

1,31

positive

1,3?
negative

Based on listed companies results
Based on Bain estimates

+2%
+10%

8
Retail the sole growth driver, despite decelerating
organic growth and new focus of perimeter expansion

WHERE

WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND
BY CHANNEL (2011-2013E|€B)
• Slight slow down in new DOS
openings, especially in emerging
markets
• Store renovation/ relocation/
expansion in mature markets

• Shift of retail strategies
- Strategic maintenance in China
- New openings in US
- Renovations in key fashion capitals

• Increasing leverage of flexible
temporary formats (pop-up, seasonal)

+0%
+14%

+9%

+8%

WHS
• Organic +3%

• Organic +9%
• Perimeter +5%
(~500 new DOS)

• Perimeter +5%
(~600 new DOS)

RTL

9
The unstoppable run of online luxury: 10x in 10 years
with brands striving to seize the channel’s value

WHERE

ONLINE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (2003-2013E|€B)
5%

Online
penetration

4%

Brands.Com
3%

E-Tailers

2%
1%

@K

Retailers.Com

40%

37%

28%

28%

18%

17%

25%

28%

28%

30%

• After years of marginal efforts, brands are aggressively entering the online
arena, leveraging internet for both sales and communication
- Over 5,000 country-based online stores
- However, 40% of brands still do not sell online
- M-commerce represents almost 1/3 of traffic and over 10% of sales for some brands

• Off-price segment still represents around 30% of the market, pushed by
blossoming flash sales sites and in-season promotions by department stores
10
Online wins in US accessories with direct retail
leveraged almost exclusively by largest brand

WHERE

ONLINE VS. WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2013E|€B)
Online
penetration

Other
Europe

10

217

~15%
34%
~25%

34%

Americas

2%

Apparel

Online
luxury

~16%
~30%

3%

~60%
32%

10
~3%
~10%

9%

Worlwide
luxury

Accessories

~41%

Online
luxury

217
4%

4%

23%

2%

20%

4%

25%

Other
Hard luxury
Beauty

5%

28%

7%

Worlwide
luxury

10

217

Wholesale

~70%

69%

Retail

~30%

31%

Online
luxury

Worldwide
luxury

5%

4%

• The online luxury market is
enormously skewed to the US

• Accessories have the highest online • The brands that already
generate critical mass are
penetration (shoes above 10%)
directly managing their e-com
- US department stores are segment
• Apparel penetration in line with
leaders
• With brands launching e-com
overall average
- US brands represent over half of
increasingly opting for internal
total brands’ sale online
• Hard luxury is far below average
platforms, retail is to increase
- Some of the most relevant webwith specialist watchmakers
fast
specialists are US-based
almost absent from the channel
11
Outlets increasingly important as part of the consumer
quest for value for money

WHERE

OFF-PRICE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2010-2013E|€B)

CAGR
+23%

• Europe sustained both by tourism
flows and domestic consumption
as a "refuge" from the crisis
- Chinese and Eastern European
'bargain trips' boost Western
European outlets

• US champion of off-price channel
- US department stores increasingly
focusing on off-price formats
- Large brands leveraging outlets to
push ad-hoc collections

• International developers focusing
on Asia (China in particular) for
new openings
- Locations nearby tier-1 cities
- Tailor-made formats, evocative of
Western Europe resort towns

12
The US is back
WHERE

13
In 2013 for the first time Americas surpassed Asia as
luxury’s main growth engine

WHERE

WORLDWIDE LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY AREA (2012-2013E|€B)
YoY ‘12 vs. ‘11
@K

YoY ‘13E vs. ‘12
@K

+10%

+5%

+2%

+6%

Rest of World

+11%

+3%

+6%

+8%

Asia-Pacific

+17%

+10%

+4%

+5%

+8%

-1%

-12%

+9%

+14%

+5%

+4%

+7%

+5%

+3%

+2%

+3%

Japan
Americas

Europe

14
In Europe, increasing touristic flows counterbalance
local consumers trading down

WHERE

EUROPEAN LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2011-2013E|€B)
• Local consumers reducing discretionary
spending on luxury due to increasing
local prices; tourists maintaining
momentum
+5%

+2%

Share of sales to tourist vs. domestic
by European major country (2013E)

Tourists

Local

-Locals trading down to premium apparel
brands and retailers
-Simpler visa procedures for Chinese
boosting touristic flows in UK and Spain
-Slowdown of inbound flows to Germany

• Traditional wholesale channel hit the
hardest by the crisis (especially in Italy),
-Cautious retail strategy aims at pleasing
tourists through renovations of flagships in
top cities, rather than expanding perimeter

• Most Eastern European markets
stagnating or contracting with the
exception of Russia
-Political and economic instability negatively
affecting domestic luxury shopping
-Wealthy customers increasingly buying
abroad
15
Expansion in 2nd-tier areas in US providing extra room
for growth; Japanese yen driving country performance

WHERE

Americas

American Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

• US (~€62,5B) accelerating in real terms in 2013
from good performance that started in 2012
• Chinese becoming relevant in Western cities (e.g.
Las Vegas, Los Angeles)

@K

+14%
+5%

+4%
+7%

- Many brands redirecting investments to the country,
targeting 2nd-tier cities and locations
- Trend towards conversion of department stores doors
into direct concessions

• Canada (~€1,5B) becoming increasingly dynamic
with US dept. stores expected to expand
• Latin America (~€5B) maintaining growth in real
terms with the exception of Argentina
Japanese Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

Japan

• Strong yen devaluation redirecting consumption
locally but also strongly penalizing market
performance in real terms
- Consumer confidence at highest levels since 2007,
sustaining local economic recovery

@K

+8%

-12%
-1%

+9%

• Department stores registering very positive
performance while historic flagship stores under
renovation
• Luxury brands still struggling to capture changing
consumer behavior, especially younger
generations less attracted by traditional luxury
brands
16
South East Asia consistently outperforming the other
Asian markets sharply reducing growth

Greater China

Greater China Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

+19%

+4%

WHERE

• Mainland China further slowing down with
brands that entered the market years ago
starting network maintenance
• Hong Kong and Macau benefiting from
further increasing tourist flows and new
retail developments
• Taiwan increasingly challenging

South Korea

South Korean Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

• Internal consumption slowing down since
the last quarter of 2012
• Cosmetics still the best performing
category

+13%

S.E. Asia

+1%

South East Asian Personal Luxury
Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

+20%

+11%

• Sharp reduction of Japanese tourists due
to yen devaluation, only partially offset by
growing flows from China pushing dutyfree sales since the second quarter of 2013
• Singapore still the key regional hub
• New markets (Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand,
Vietnam) increasingly relevant both for
domestic spending and tourist flows,
especially during Chinese Golden Week
• International brands planning more direct
presence in Malaysia and Indonesia
17
Mainland China becoming more challenging as
consumers become more sophisticated

WHERE

MAINLAND CHINA LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2011-2013E|€B)
• Further slowdown of real growth,
highlighted in 2013 by currency fluctuations

@RMB

+2,5%
+20%
+8%

China Personal Luxury Goods Market
by Segment Trend (2013E)

+3,5%

-Government crackdown on public officials
spending in luxury and anti-corruption
campaigns still negatively affecting gifting
-Chinese consumers increasingly buying
luxury goods abroad (Hong Kong, Macau,
Europe, Middle East, US West Coast): limited
impact of price increase policies in Europe

• New channels rapidly emerging
-E-commerce growing double digits
-Multi-brand formats starting to blossom
(mainly Asian and European department and
concept stores) as well as premium outlet
centers

• Polarization of consumers attitudes:
-Booming high-end and sophisticated luxury
-Logo fatigue: aspirational consumers shifting
to more accessible luxury-premium brands,
benefitting also from rise of new middle class

18
Relevant untapped potential in other "new" markets
WHERE

Middle East

Middle Eastern Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

@local
currency

+5%
+11%

+7%

Australian Personal Luxury Goods
Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

+17%
+7%

Africa

+6%

+15%

African Personal Luxury Goods Market
Trend (2011-2013E|€B)

+24%

- Dubai Mall has higher traffic than NYC

• Saudi Arabia (2nd largest market) gaining
share in the Region

+4%

Australia

• Dubai still the top luxury hub for the region,
further boosted by increasing spending of
tourists (now also from China)

+11%

• Growing consumer base with increasing
appetite for luxury
- 9th highest concentration of HNWI’s with young
generations more incline to indulge in luxury
- High-end touristic destination now increasingly
attracting Chinese flows

• Network expansion of international luxury
brands still focusing on key cities
• With China slowing down, Africa is now poised
to become one of the fastest growing
economies
• Luxury sales are still very concentrated in
South Africa and Morocco, but brands are
starting to expand in new markets (e.g.
Angola, Nigeria)
19
Mainland China surpassing France, gaining a 4th
position globally, just slightly behind Italy

WHERE

PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS – TOP 10 COUNTRIES (2013E|B€)

US

20
New York, Paris and London leading the league;
Hong Kong the top Asian luxury hub

WHERE

PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS - TOP 10 CITIES (2013E|B€)

New York
% Country

~35%

~70%

~75%

~100%

~40%

~70%

~35%

~30%

~10%

~30%

21
Leather and accessories: resilient champions
WHAT

22
Accessories established as the number one personal
luxury category in 2012-2013

WHAT

WORLDWIDE LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CATEGORY (2012-2013E|€B)
YoY ‘12 vs. ‘11

YoY ‘13E vs. ‘12

+10%

+2%

Other

+3%

+0%

Beauty

+4%

+2%

+13%

+2%

+8%

+1%

+16%

+4%

Hard Luxury
Apparel
Accessories

23
High-end segment outperforming in apparel with
casual categories reinterpreted in luxury tones

Men’s RTW

WHAT

• Men's is outperforming women's in most
markets, but sharply decelerating in
Mainland China

2nd lines

+9%

+1%

1st lines

+12%

+2%

Women’s RTW

• Super-performance of high-end segment
in all its different shades: made-to-measure
and sartorial, absolute luxury and first
lines
• Growing importance of "1st line sportswear
and denim" and deployment of technical
fabrics beyond sportswear and outerwear

• Down-trading in mature markets, with
more impact from the competition from
premium brands and apparel retailers

2nd lines

+5%

+0%

1st lines

+10%

+2%

• Denim performing very well also in
women's RTW but with few 'killer brands'
renowned for their fit, key purchasing driver
for the target
• Furs and especially fur-wear and fur
accessories continuing their run after 2012
re-launch
24
Leather goods leading the way with the sharpest
uptrading ever experienced in the industry

Soft accessories

WHAT

• Leather goods are consistently the fastest
growing category in luxury
- Men's growing double digit

• 2013 is witnessing the strongest focus on
'ultimate luxury' with precious skins ruling

Shoes
Leather

+13%
+19%

+4%

- Top players investing in leather suppliers and
animal farms to face scarcity of rare raw materials

+5%

• Shoes represent one of the fastest growing
categories with both men's and women's
registering solid performance driven by
specialist players

Hard Luxury
Jewels
Watches

• Strong polarization: both high-end jewelry
and affordable growing significantly

+14%
+13%

+5%
+1%

- Silver and costume jewelry from fashion brands
performing very well, leveraging growing middle
class in emerging markets and fashionization of
jewelry that turns the latter ever more into a
fashion item

• Watches slowing down in real terms
- Over-exposed brands suffering in Mainland China

• Accessible watch segment showing the
highest dynamism
25
Entry-to-luxury product categories performing well
with textile accessories and eyewear very dynamic

WHAT

• Textile accessories 2nd fastest growing
category thanks to low relative average
ticket and gift-related nature

Textile & eyewear

• Next to highly iconic brands, many others
are increasingly leveraging textile as a
traffic builder in their stores

Textile
Eyewear

+16%

+4%

+11%

+3%

• Fashion eyewear increasingly focusing on
frames beyond sunglasses
• Eyewear specialists and house brands
make up a large portion of the market and
outperform fashion brands
- Absolute/niche players showing highest growth

• Overall beauty market suffering in Europe
with UK and Germany notable exceptions

Beauty

- Lower average price due to increasing
promotions
- New launches a key growth driver for
perfumes and skincare

Perfumes

+4%

+2%

Cosmetics

+5%

+2%

• Absolute segment outperforming in
perfumes: high concentration (price 150€+)
growing double-digit, approaching triple-digit
• Color cosmetics experiencing several
successful new entries from fashion
brands
26
Feminization of men and “men-ization” of women in
luxury

WHO

LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY GENDER (1995-2013E|€B)

Product categories

Geographies

Women's

Women's

Men's

Men's
Watches

Leather goods

• Categories are reshuffling typical
targets…
- Women are buying more complex
watches, while men’s purses are a
new overwhelming phenomenon in
leather goods

Chinese market

European market

• …markets see new leading
actors
- Women are ever more empowered in
emerging markets while men in
mature markets are approaching
luxury goods more and more

Men (40% of the market) and women (60%) in luxury
seek what the other has, in a dynamic game that is
reshaping the industry rules
27
Chinese consumers heading to become nearly onethird of the luxury market

WHO

LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CONSUMER NATIONALITY (1995-2013E|€B)
• Chinese growing the most, on target to
represent one third of the market, by
-Sustaining domestic market (captive)
-Boosting performance of satellite Hong Kong
and Macau
-Replacing decreasing Japanese spending in
South Korea
-Maintaining relevant spending in Europe with
new paths (i.e. UK and Spain new simpler visa
procedures)
-Increasingly exploring the US West Coast (e.g.
Los Angeles and Las Vegas)
-Providing extra momentum to other shopping
destinations like UAE, SEA and Australia

• American spending growing both
domestically and overseas
• Western European spending in
contraction, not offset by Eastern European
which is growing at only single-digit
• Japanese spending in contraction due to
currency devaluation
28
With the exception of Japan, China and South America,
all markets are now driven by touristic spending

WHO

LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CONSUMER NATIONALITY (2013E|€B)
Regional tourists

Other tourists
Other tourists
Regional tourists

Other tourists

Locals

Regional tourists
Locals

Regional tourists

Locals

Japan

Europe

Americas

• US consumers buying
mainly locally
• Chinese consumers
enlarging their reach
• Brazilians buying
more in the region
due to currency
devaluation

• Western Europeans
decreasing spending
and buying locally
• Eastern Europeans
buying more in Western
Europe or in Moscow
• Asian consumers
fundamental
contributors
- Chinese growing thanks to
simpler visa
- Thai spending booming in
Europe

Locals

Asia

• Chinese top foreign
nationality for most
markets in Greater
China, SEA and Korea

• Yen
devaluation
skewing the
market towards
domestic
consumption
even further

• Japanese reducing
spending overseas
due to currency
devaluation
29
Luxury market is in the hands of the same three key
nationalities in terms of brands and owners
LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY BRAND
NATIONALITY (1995 VS. 2012|€B)
€77B

€212B

Other 30%

Other 28%

WHO

LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY OWNER
NATIONALITY (1995 VS. 2012|€B)
€77B

€212B

Other 31%

Other 31%

(o/w 0% from
new markets)

(o/w 2% from
new markets)

US 22%

US 23%

US 22%

US 23%

Italian 21%

Italian 24%

Italian 22%

Italian 17%

French 27%

French 25%

French 25%

French 29%

1995

2012

1995

2012

Italian brands have gained
the largest share…

...but French players have
acquired most of them
30
Healthy expectation for the medium term
LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND

KEY TRENDS
• China becoming a mature market
with consolidating growth rates
• New emerging countries arising on
the luxury stage aiming at retracing
China extraordinary growth path

CAGR
‘13-’16
+3-5%
@K
+2%
(+6% @K)

• Confidence in steady performance of
the US market
• Question mark on Japan and
Japanese performance due to the
strong impact of currency fluctuations

Chinese consumer reinforcing their
position as first nationality
worldwide, ensuring, together with
new emerging markets, an enlarging
consumer base
31
An additional “W” is fundamental to the outlook

WHEN

Trends by quarter
WHAT’S NEXT?

WHERE

Market incoming
trends

Trends by channel and
geographic area

Why?
WHO

Trends by consumer
segment and nationality

WHAT

Trends by product
category

32
So...what’s happening?
WHY

• Luxury is experiencing a slowdown across the board
-Travels, self-indulgence and 'accessorization' drive positive growth of hotels, food &
wines, cars and personal luxury

• It's all about consumers, much less about markets
-Chinese confirmed as top and fastest growing nationality despite significant
deceleration of domestic consumption

• The higher, the better…much better!
-Absolute, high-end and niche segments consistently outperforming the market across
products, from men's made-to-measure, to precious-skin leather goods, to high-end
jewelry, to high concentrations of perfumes

• Brands finally starting to embrace the digital revolution…
-Increasing leverage of online channel, growing investments in digital
communication and deeper integration of digital (devices) in the products

• …already consolidated in the consumer mindset
-Consumers approach luxury as integrated omnichannel, browsing online and buying instore or vice-versa, increasingly asking for more (content, product, education, assortment)

The industry is becoming more challenging. Companies who lag behind
on strategic imperatives will lose the momentum
33
Luxury consumption spans across several categories
Cars
Yachts

Design

Wines &
Spirits
Personal
Luxury
goods

Hôtellerie

Food

34
Global luxury growing 6% vs. 2012
WHY

WORLDWIDE LUXURY “MARKET OF THE MARKETS” (2013E, €B)

35
Luxury Cars keeping pace in 2013 with the
"supercar" segment still outperforming
Luxury Cars Market Trend (€B)

+14%

+7%

+6%

Key Industry Macro-Trends
• 2013 luxury car market posted a solid growth,
driven by new markets - Brazil, India, Middle
East and China (even if decelerating) especially in the "supercar" segment
• Shorter life-cycle solicits intensive R&D
investments in new models/variants

Trends by Segment (2012)
4 €B
1,5%
35 €B
11,7%

260 €B
86,8%

• "Eco-friendly" - "always connected" cars:
- Downsizing: "bigger is better" is no more
the mantra for luxury cars
- Hybrid cars: combining high performance
with low emissions aiming to attract wealthy
but ethical consumers
- Go electro: luxury electric cars gaining
market share, especially in US
- User-centric connected vehicles able to
incorporate the overall digital lifestyle
• Digital and social media leading to virtual
word-of-mouth are increasingly important
drivers of decision making

36
"Sky is the limit" in spirits while wine moving
towards entry-to-luxury products
Luxury Wines & Spirits Market Trend (€B)

Key Industry Macro-Trends
WINES

+8%
+12%
+15%

Trends by Segment
51
Spirits
25%

Fine Wine
75%

2012

• In traditional European markets, priceconscious consumers have sought to explore
the value of entry-to-luxury wines
• Big champagne brands under pressure in
traditional markets, being challenged by more
affordable wines (e.g. Prosecco, Franciacorta)
• Budding demand uncovered in the world's
emerging markets of Russia, Brazil, China,
Mexico and Nigeria
SPIRITS

• Continuous up-trading towards luxury and
super luxury products
• BRICs, Eastern Europe, LATAM and MEA
becoming high growth markets due to
liberalization of trade norms and rising
income level
• Innovation as mantra in the sector:
redefinition of the core – creation of new
blends, formats and targeted products
37
Healthy growth in luxury hospitality although
capped by US$ devaluation
Luxury Hôtellerie Market Trend (€B)

+9%
+15%

• Revenue per available room improving driven by
strong occupancy (above prior peak) and higher
average daily rate

Trends by Segment
127

127

Absolute
23%

Leisure
23%

Aspirational
23%

2012

• Overall market decelerating after 2012
rebound mainly due to US$ devaluation (11%
growth at constant exchange rates)
• Business segment driving growth, with strong
preference for absolute luxury hotels

+18%

Accessible
54%

Key industry Macro-Trends

Business
77%

2012

• Supply expected to be almost flat also as a
result of renovations
-China slowing down, with cities such as
Beijing and Shanghai already over-supplied
• Key trends in the sector
-"Back home": next generation of wealthy
travelers will increasingly ask for a room
experience that reminds them their own home
-Digitalization: iPads and touch screen phones
from which guests can control the entire room
-Spas and fine dining (e.g. Michelin-starred) to
become an important differentiator
38
In-home consumption driven by healthy food.
Restaurants still in a weak phase
Luxury Food Market Trend (€B)

+3%
+8%
+5%

Trends by Segment
38

Restaurants
46%

Beverages
31%

Food 23%

Key Industry Macro-Trends
• Luxury restaurants still suffering
-Value-for-money first: restaurants are
increasingly canny about giving good value
rather than risk raising menu prices
-Shift to fine in-home dining: use of preprepared fresh ingredients to create
restaurant-quality meals at home increasingly
overcoming restaurants
• Beverages gaining market share
-Bottled water best performer in the global
beverage marketplace as a healthy
alternative to carbonated soft drinks
• Gourmet food: healthy but flavorful
-Localized eating: food to come from
walking distance
-Healthy food: such as gluten-free items,
organic products and vegan food
-Ethnic tweak: discover the flavor
possibilities of global ingredients beyond
traditional roles in "ethnic" cuisine

2012
39
Design Furniture market stable, suggesting a net
downward trend
High-End Furniture Market Trend (€B)

+3%

+0%

+5%

Key Industry Macro-Trends
• Design furniture market in a slow downward
trend
-Lighting segment outperforming other categories

• Market supported by new channels
-Contract: yachts, hotels and luxury residences are
increasingly interesting for design brands
-Online: dedicated platforms to shorten route-tomarket

Trends by Segment
18
Outdoor 10%
Kitchen 10%
Lighting 14%
Bathroom
16%

Living &
Bedroom 49%

• Export and new markets: with declining
European domestic consumption, export is
crucial to offset crisis
-China and Russia are the most attractive markets
pushed by strong real-estate

• Macro-trends in the sector:
-Entry price: simplified collection and/or more
affordable raw materials to introduce entry price
lines of high-end design brands
-Go green: environment sustainability as a key
theme in new collection development
 100% biodegradable plastic
 LED-based lighting

2012
40
Good performance of the Lighting sector pushed by
LEDs technology innovation
MARKET GROWTH BY PRODUCT SEGMENT, 2011-2013E (%)
Living & Bedroom: 9,1B€
- Strong relationship with fashion:
new brands entering the category
- Hotel inspiration, turning bedroom
into a relaxing suite

Bathroom: 3,0B€
- New partnerships with famous designers and
architects
- Green vocation aiming to use precious but
sustainable materials

Lighting: 2,7B€
CAGR 11-13E

- LEDs market still
registering a boom
also driven by lower
prices (~ down 50%
in two years) and
higher efficiency
- Incandescent lights
constantly losing
market share

Kitchen: 1,9B€
- Strongly related to real estate activity, and
still suffering in Western Europe
- Major trends: earth friendly, high tech,
colorful, designed for fresh, healthy food
preparation

Outdoor: 1,8B€
- Outdoor becomes a natural extension of the
house, incorporating seat walls, water features, …
- Lower investments required vs. internal design
41
Yachts market flattening, with positive signs from
emerging markets
Luxury Yachts Market Trend (€B)

+5%

+2%

-18%

Trends by segment
2,4 €B
Over 15M€

0,8 €B
7M€ - 15M€

0,7 €B
3,5M€ - 7M€

2,7 €B
750k€ - 3,5M€

2012

0%

Key Industry Macro-Trends
• Growth slowdown in 2012 confirmed by
a flat nominal performance expected in
2013
• At constant currency, expected positive
performance boost by increasing US
consumer confidence and growing
purchases from USD-linked currencies
• "Superyacht" segment as the most
dynamic in all geographies, driven by
rise of Chinese spending in the
industry
• Emerging markets are THE source for
growth:
-Doubling-down in Chinese spending, with
major customization to match local tastes
(interiors) and requirements (exteriors)
-Growing Brazilian market, already
accustomed to the yachting culture
-Booming Middle East
42
Lens on consumer is increasingly important to anticipate
trends and behaviors

Generations
How old is
the consumer?

Nationalities
Where the consumer
is from?

Spending power
& attitude
What the consumer
(can) buy?

Lifestyle
How the consumer
lives (luxury)?

43
Understanding consumer and aligning the business
accordingly will be the luxury "mantra" for next decade
All functions to be
consumer-educated
and evaluated
through consumer
KPIs

Continuous
business
monitoring
through
consumerdedicated KPIs

READY-toCONSUMER
ORGANIZATION

PERFORMANCE
MEASUREMENT

Front-line to be enhanced
as key touch-point with
consumers and to be
educated to customercentric culture

STRATEGY
DEFINITION &
PLANNING

CONSUMER

EXECUTION
THROUGH
EXCELLENT
FRONTLINE

Strategic thinking to
be structured by
consumer segments
as additional key
business driver

Collection
development,
merchandising
COLLECTION
structure and
DEVELOPMENT &
buying must
MERCHANDISING
consider target
consumer segments

RETAIL NETWORK
DEVELOPMENT

Network development and
store planning to be defined
according to the purchasing
behavior of consumer who
will visit the store
44
Claudia D’Arpizio, Partner
Bain’s Luxury Goods Practice
Claudia D’Arpizio is a Partner at Bain & Company. She is a leading member of
the firm’s Global Consumer Products and Retail Practices, and leads Bain’s
Luxury Goods Practice.
For almost 20 years, Claudia has advised multinational clients, mainly in
fashion and luxury goods. She has extensively worked on issues relating to
business unit strategy, sales and marketing, product and service adjacencies,
channel strategy, new product development, innovation, acquisitions and
divestitures, performance improvement and organizational changes.
Claudia D’Arpizio

Claudia is the lead author of the Bain’s Yearly Luxury Study, developed
since 1999 in cooperation with Altagamma, the trade association of the Italian
luxury brands. This study, based on the analysis of an extensive panel of
worldwide luxury brands, is periodically updated and has become one of the
most valued and cited sources of market information in the luxury industry.
Claudia is a globally recognized expert in luxury and in 2009 was named by
the Consulting Magazine one of the “Top 25 Consultants in the World”.
Claudia is frequent speaker and writer on luxury goods strategy and she is
extensively quoted in Italian and international media: Il sole 24 ore, La
Repubblica, Il Corriere della Sera, The Wall Street Journal, US, Europe and Asia
editions, Financial Times, New York Times, The Economist, Newsweek, Reuters,
Bloomberg, Associated Press, WWD, Fortune, Washington Post, International
Herald Tribune, National Post Business Magazine, Boston Globe, The Time and
Dow Jones Newswire.
Claudia lives between Rome and Milan.
45
Bain contacts

For a copy of the study or to schedule an interview with Claudia D’Arpizio,
please contact:

INTERNATIONAL PRESS
• Cheryl Krauss

at email: cheryl.krauss@bain.com

or +1 646 562 7863

• Frank Pinto

at email: frank.pinto@bain.com

or +1 917 309 1065

at email: valeria.falcone@bain.it

or +39 06 85250 350

ITALIAN PRESS
• Valeria Falcone

46

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2013 luxury goods worldwide market report

  • 1. 2013 Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study (12th Edition) October, 2013 This information is confidential and was prepared by Bain & Company solely for the use of our client; it is not to be relied on by any 3rd party without Bain's prior written consent
  • 2. Luxury consumption spans across several categories Cars Yachts Design Wines & Spirits Personal Luxury goods Hôtellerie Food 2
  • 3. The first moderation since 2009 financial turmoil; luxury market leaves behind double-digit growth WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (1995-2013E|€B) Sept 11 SARS $/€ Subprime & financial crisis Socio-Economic Turbulence 2% 10% 11% 13% 3
  • 4. Euro fluctuations have penalized market performance in 2013, despite real growth outpacing 2012 WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND @ CURRENT AND CONSTANT EXCHANGE RATES (2011-2013E|€B) @ current exchange rate +10% +2% @ constant exchange rate +5% +6% 8% US dollar appreciation 8% Yen appreciation 11% Yuan appreciation 3% US dollar devaluation 20% Yen devaluation 1% Yuan devaluation 4
  • 5. The Japanese yen devaluation is driving over half of the differential between real and nominal growth WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET GROWTH @ CURRENT AND CONSTANT EXCHANGE RATES (2013E|%) 5
  • 6. The holiday season is expected to be in line with the full year performance BASE SCENARIO Worldwide Personal Luxury Goods 2013 Scenarios €B +2% Main assumption • Holiday season recovering from a very bad 3rd quarter but remaining below 1st quarter performance (+2% vs last year) Assumed Probability 80% BEST SCENARIO +3% • Holiday season in line with 1st quarter, highest for growth (+4 % vs last year) 20% 6
  • 7. What is happening in the Personal Luxury Goods Market? “5 W’s” for analyzing 2012-2013 performance WHEN Trends by quarter WHAT’S NEXT? WHERE Market incoming trends Trends by channel and geographic area WHO WHAT Trends by consumer segment and nationality Trends by product category 7
  • 8. After a first quarter more in line with 2012 holidays, second and third quarter 2013 are close to stagnation WHEN WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (2011-2013E|€B) €/$ 1,28 1,31 negative impact on nominal growth 1,25 positive 1,32 negative 1,31 positive 1,3? negative Based on listed companies results Based on Bain estimates +2% +10% 8
  • 9. Retail the sole growth driver, despite decelerating organic growth and new focus of perimeter expansion WHERE WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND BY CHANNEL (2011-2013E|€B) • Slight slow down in new DOS openings, especially in emerging markets • Store renovation/ relocation/ expansion in mature markets • Shift of retail strategies - Strategic maintenance in China - New openings in US - Renovations in key fashion capitals • Increasing leverage of flexible temporary formats (pop-up, seasonal) +0% +14% +9% +8% WHS • Organic +3% • Organic +9% • Perimeter +5% (~500 new DOS) • Perimeter +5% (~600 new DOS) RTL 9
  • 10. The unstoppable run of online luxury: 10x in 10 years with brands striving to seize the channel’s value WHERE ONLINE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND (2003-2013E|€B) 5% Online penetration 4% Brands.Com 3% E-Tailers 2% 1% @K Retailers.Com 40% 37% 28% 28% 18% 17% 25% 28% 28% 30% • After years of marginal efforts, brands are aggressively entering the online arena, leveraging internet for both sales and communication - Over 5,000 country-based online stores - However, 40% of brands still do not sell online - M-commerce represents almost 1/3 of traffic and over 10% of sales for some brands • Off-price segment still represents around 30% of the market, pushed by blossoming flash sales sites and in-season promotions by department stores 10
  • 11. Online wins in US accessories with direct retail leveraged almost exclusively by largest brand WHERE ONLINE VS. WORLDWIDE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2013E|€B) Online penetration Other Europe 10 217 ~15% 34% ~25% 34% Americas 2% Apparel Online luxury ~16% ~30% 3% ~60% 32% 10 ~3% ~10% 9% Worlwide luxury Accessories ~41% Online luxury 217 4% 4% 23% 2% 20% 4% 25% Other Hard luxury Beauty 5% 28% 7% Worlwide luxury 10 217 Wholesale ~70% 69% Retail ~30% 31% Online luxury Worldwide luxury 5% 4% • The online luxury market is enormously skewed to the US • Accessories have the highest online • The brands that already generate critical mass are penetration (shoes above 10%) directly managing their e-com - US department stores are segment • Apparel penetration in line with leaders • With brands launching e-com overall average - US brands represent over half of increasingly opting for internal total brands’ sale online • Hard luxury is far below average platforms, retail is to increase - Some of the most relevant webwith specialist watchmakers fast specialists are US-based almost absent from the channel 11
  • 12. Outlets increasingly important as part of the consumer quest for value for money WHERE OFF-PRICE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2010-2013E|€B) CAGR +23% • Europe sustained both by tourism flows and domestic consumption as a "refuge" from the crisis - Chinese and Eastern European 'bargain trips' boost Western European outlets • US champion of off-price channel - US department stores increasingly focusing on off-price formats - Large brands leveraging outlets to push ad-hoc collections • International developers focusing on Asia (China in particular) for new openings - Locations nearby tier-1 cities - Tailor-made formats, evocative of Western Europe resort towns 12
  • 13. The US is back WHERE 13
  • 14. In 2013 for the first time Americas surpassed Asia as luxury’s main growth engine WHERE WORLDWIDE LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY AREA (2012-2013E|€B) YoY ‘12 vs. ‘11 @K YoY ‘13E vs. ‘12 @K +10% +5% +2% +6% Rest of World +11% +3% +6% +8% Asia-Pacific +17% +10% +4% +5% +8% -1% -12% +9% +14% +5% +4% +7% +5% +3% +2% +3% Japan Americas Europe 14
  • 15. In Europe, increasing touristic flows counterbalance local consumers trading down WHERE EUROPEAN LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2011-2013E|€B) • Local consumers reducing discretionary spending on luxury due to increasing local prices; tourists maintaining momentum +5% +2% Share of sales to tourist vs. domestic by European major country (2013E) Tourists Local -Locals trading down to premium apparel brands and retailers -Simpler visa procedures for Chinese boosting touristic flows in UK and Spain -Slowdown of inbound flows to Germany • Traditional wholesale channel hit the hardest by the crisis (especially in Italy), -Cautious retail strategy aims at pleasing tourists through renovations of flagships in top cities, rather than expanding perimeter • Most Eastern European markets stagnating or contracting with the exception of Russia -Political and economic instability negatively affecting domestic luxury shopping -Wealthy customers increasingly buying abroad 15
  • 16. Expansion in 2nd-tier areas in US providing extra room for growth; Japanese yen driving country performance WHERE Americas American Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) • US (~€62,5B) accelerating in real terms in 2013 from good performance that started in 2012 • Chinese becoming relevant in Western cities (e.g. Las Vegas, Los Angeles) @K +14% +5% +4% +7% - Many brands redirecting investments to the country, targeting 2nd-tier cities and locations - Trend towards conversion of department stores doors into direct concessions • Canada (~€1,5B) becoming increasingly dynamic with US dept. stores expected to expand • Latin America (~€5B) maintaining growth in real terms with the exception of Argentina Japanese Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) Japan • Strong yen devaluation redirecting consumption locally but also strongly penalizing market performance in real terms - Consumer confidence at highest levels since 2007, sustaining local economic recovery @K +8% -12% -1% +9% • Department stores registering very positive performance while historic flagship stores under renovation • Luxury brands still struggling to capture changing consumer behavior, especially younger generations less attracted by traditional luxury brands 16
  • 17. South East Asia consistently outperforming the other Asian markets sharply reducing growth Greater China Greater China Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) +19% +4% WHERE • Mainland China further slowing down with brands that entered the market years ago starting network maintenance • Hong Kong and Macau benefiting from further increasing tourist flows and new retail developments • Taiwan increasingly challenging South Korea South Korean Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) • Internal consumption slowing down since the last quarter of 2012 • Cosmetics still the best performing category +13% S.E. Asia +1% South East Asian Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) +20% +11% • Sharp reduction of Japanese tourists due to yen devaluation, only partially offset by growing flows from China pushing dutyfree sales since the second quarter of 2013 • Singapore still the key regional hub • New markets (Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Vietnam) increasingly relevant both for domestic spending and tourist flows, especially during Chinese Golden Week • International brands planning more direct presence in Malaysia and Indonesia 17
  • 18. Mainland China becoming more challenging as consumers become more sophisticated WHERE MAINLAND CHINA LUXURY GOODS MARKET (2011-2013E|€B) • Further slowdown of real growth, highlighted in 2013 by currency fluctuations @RMB +2,5% +20% +8% China Personal Luxury Goods Market by Segment Trend (2013E) +3,5% -Government crackdown on public officials spending in luxury and anti-corruption campaigns still negatively affecting gifting -Chinese consumers increasingly buying luxury goods abroad (Hong Kong, Macau, Europe, Middle East, US West Coast): limited impact of price increase policies in Europe • New channels rapidly emerging -E-commerce growing double digits -Multi-brand formats starting to blossom (mainly Asian and European department and concept stores) as well as premium outlet centers • Polarization of consumers attitudes: -Booming high-end and sophisticated luxury -Logo fatigue: aspirational consumers shifting to more accessible luxury-premium brands, benefitting also from rise of new middle class 18
  • 19. Relevant untapped potential in other "new" markets WHERE Middle East Middle Eastern Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) @local currency +5% +11% +7% Australian Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) +17% +7% Africa +6% +15% African Personal Luxury Goods Market Trend (2011-2013E|€B) +24% - Dubai Mall has higher traffic than NYC • Saudi Arabia (2nd largest market) gaining share in the Region +4% Australia • Dubai still the top luxury hub for the region, further boosted by increasing spending of tourists (now also from China) +11% • Growing consumer base with increasing appetite for luxury - 9th highest concentration of HNWI’s with young generations more incline to indulge in luxury - High-end touristic destination now increasingly attracting Chinese flows • Network expansion of international luxury brands still focusing on key cities • With China slowing down, Africa is now poised to become one of the fastest growing economies • Luxury sales are still very concentrated in South Africa and Morocco, but brands are starting to expand in new markets (e.g. Angola, Nigeria) 19
  • 20. Mainland China surpassing France, gaining a 4th position globally, just slightly behind Italy WHERE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS – TOP 10 COUNTRIES (2013E|B€) US 20
  • 21. New York, Paris and London leading the league; Hong Kong the top Asian luxury hub WHERE PERSONAL LUXURY GOODS - TOP 10 CITIES (2013E|B€) New York % Country ~35% ~70% ~75% ~100% ~40% ~70% ~35% ~30% ~10% ~30% 21
  • 22. Leather and accessories: resilient champions WHAT 22
  • 23. Accessories established as the number one personal luxury category in 2012-2013 WHAT WORLDWIDE LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CATEGORY (2012-2013E|€B) YoY ‘12 vs. ‘11 YoY ‘13E vs. ‘12 +10% +2% Other +3% +0% Beauty +4% +2% +13% +2% +8% +1% +16% +4% Hard Luxury Apparel Accessories 23
  • 24. High-end segment outperforming in apparel with casual categories reinterpreted in luxury tones Men’s RTW WHAT • Men's is outperforming women's in most markets, but sharply decelerating in Mainland China 2nd lines +9% +1% 1st lines +12% +2% Women’s RTW • Super-performance of high-end segment in all its different shades: made-to-measure and sartorial, absolute luxury and first lines • Growing importance of "1st line sportswear and denim" and deployment of technical fabrics beyond sportswear and outerwear • Down-trading in mature markets, with more impact from the competition from premium brands and apparel retailers 2nd lines +5% +0% 1st lines +10% +2% • Denim performing very well also in women's RTW but with few 'killer brands' renowned for their fit, key purchasing driver for the target • Furs and especially fur-wear and fur accessories continuing their run after 2012 re-launch 24
  • 25. Leather goods leading the way with the sharpest uptrading ever experienced in the industry Soft accessories WHAT • Leather goods are consistently the fastest growing category in luxury - Men's growing double digit • 2013 is witnessing the strongest focus on 'ultimate luxury' with precious skins ruling Shoes Leather +13% +19% +4% - Top players investing in leather suppliers and animal farms to face scarcity of rare raw materials +5% • Shoes represent one of the fastest growing categories with both men's and women's registering solid performance driven by specialist players Hard Luxury Jewels Watches • Strong polarization: both high-end jewelry and affordable growing significantly +14% +13% +5% +1% - Silver and costume jewelry from fashion brands performing very well, leveraging growing middle class in emerging markets and fashionization of jewelry that turns the latter ever more into a fashion item • Watches slowing down in real terms - Over-exposed brands suffering in Mainland China • Accessible watch segment showing the highest dynamism 25
  • 26. Entry-to-luxury product categories performing well with textile accessories and eyewear very dynamic WHAT • Textile accessories 2nd fastest growing category thanks to low relative average ticket and gift-related nature Textile & eyewear • Next to highly iconic brands, many others are increasingly leveraging textile as a traffic builder in their stores Textile Eyewear +16% +4% +11% +3% • Fashion eyewear increasingly focusing on frames beyond sunglasses • Eyewear specialists and house brands make up a large portion of the market and outperform fashion brands - Absolute/niche players showing highest growth • Overall beauty market suffering in Europe with UK and Germany notable exceptions Beauty - Lower average price due to increasing promotions - New launches a key growth driver for perfumes and skincare Perfumes +4% +2% Cosmetics +5% +2% • Absolute segment outperforming in perfumes: high concentration (price 150€+) growing double-digit, approaching triple-digit • Color cosmetics experiencing several successful new entries from fashion brands 26
  • 27. Feminization of men and “men-ization” of women in luxury WHO LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY GENDER (1995-2013E|€B) Product categories Geographies Women's Women's Men's Men's Watches Leather goods • Categories are reshuffling typical targets… - Women are buying more complex watches, while men’s purses are a new overwhelming phenomenon in leather goods Chinese market European market • …markets see new leading actors - Women are ever more empowered in emerging markets while men in mature markets are approaching luxury goods more and more Men (40% of the market) and women (60%) in luxury seek what the other has, in a dynamic game that is reshaping the industry rules 27
  • 28. Chinese consumers heading to become nearly onethird of the luxury market WHO LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CONSUMER NATIONALITY (1995-2013E|€B) • Chinese growing the most, on target to represent one third of the market, by -Sustaining domestic market (captive) -Boosting performance of satellite Hong Kong and Macau -Replacing decreasing Japanese spending in South Korea -Maintaining relevant spending in Europe with new paths (i.e. UK and Spain new simpler visa procedures) -Increasingly exploring the US West Coast (e.g. Los Angeles and Las Vegas) -Providing extra momentum to other shopping destinations like UAE, SEA and Australia • American spending growing both domestically and overseas • Western European spending in contraction, not offset by Eastern European which is growing at only single-digit • Japanese spending in contraction due to currency devaluation 28
  • 29. With the exception of Japan, China and South America, all markets are now driven by touristic spending WHO LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY CONSUMER NATIONALITY (2013E|€B) Regional tourists Other tourists Other tourists Regional tourists Other tourists Locals Regional tourists Locals Regional tourists Locals Japan Europe Americas • US consumers buying mainly locally • Chinese consumers enlarging their reach • Brazilians buying more in the region due to currency devaluation • Western Europeans decreasing spending and buying locally • Eastern Europeans buying more in Western Europe or in Moscow • Asian consumers fundamental contributors - Chinese growing thanks to simpler visa - Thai spending booming in Europe Locals Asia • Chinese top foreign nationality for most markets in Greater China, SEA and Korea • Yen devaluation skewing the market towards domestic consumption even further • Japanese reducing spending overseas due to currency devaluation 29
  • 30. Luxury market is in the hands of the same three key nationalities in terms of brands and owners LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY BRAND NATIONALITY (1995 VS. 2012|€B) €77B €212B Other 30% Other 28% WHO LUXURY GOODS MARKET BY OWNER NATIONALITY (1995 VS. 2012|€B) €77B €212B Other 31% Other 31% (o/w 0% from new markets) (o/w 2% from new markets) US 22% US 23% US 22% US 23% Italian 21% Italian 24% Italian 22% Italian 17% French 27% French 25% French 25% French 29% 1995 2012 1995 2012 Italian brands have gained the largest share… ...but French players have acquired most of them 30
  • 31. Healthy expectation for the medium term LUXURY GOODS MARKET TREND KEY TRENDS • China becoming a mature market with consolidating growth rates • New emerging countries arising on the luxury stage aiming at retracing China extraordinary growth path CAGR ‘13-’16 +3-5% @K +2% (+6% @K) • Confidence in steady performance of the US market • Question mark on Japan and Japanese performance due to the strong impact of currency fluctuations Chinese consumer reinforcing their position as first nationality worldwide, ensuring, together with new emerging markets, an enlarging consumer base 31
  • 32. An additional “W” is fundamental to the outlook WHEN Trends by quarter WHAT’S NEXT? WHERE Market incoming trends Trends by channel and geographic area Why? WHO Trends by consumer segment and nationality WHAT Trends by product category 32
  • 33. So...what’s happening? WHY • Luxury is experiencing a slowdown across the board -Travels, self-indulgence and 'accessorization' drive positive growth of hotels, food & wines, cars and personal luxury • It's all about consumers, much less about markets -Chinese confirmed as top and fastest growing nationality despite significant deceleration of domestic consumption • The higher, the better…much better! -Absolute, high-end and niche segments consistently outperforming the market across products, from men's made-to-measure, to precious-skin leather goods, to high-end jewelry, to high concentrations of perfumes • Brands finally starting to embrace the digital revolution… -Increasing leverage of online channel, growing investments in digital communication and deeper integration of digital (devices) in the products • …already consolidated in the consumer mindset -Consumers approach luxury as integrated omnichannel, browsing online and buying instore or vice-versa, increasingly asking for more (content, product, education, assortment) The industry is becoming more challenging. Companies who lag behind on strategic imperatives will lose the momentum 33
  • 34. Luxury consumption spans across several categories Cars Yachts Design Wines & Spirits Personal Luxury goods Hôtellerie Food 34
  • 35. Global luxury growing 6% vs. 2012 WHY WORLDWIDE LUXURY “MARKET OF THE MARKETS” (2013E, €B) 35
  • 36. Luxury Cars keeping pace in 2013 with the "supercar" segment still outperforming Luxury Cars Market Trend (€B) +14% +7% +6% Key Industry Macro-Trends • 2013 luxury car market posted a solid growth, driven by new markets - Brazil, India, Middle East and China (even if decelerating) especially in the "supercar" segment • Shorter life-cycle solicits intensive R&D investments in new models/variants Trends by Segment (2012) 4 €B 1,5% 35 €B 11,7% 260 €B 86,8% • "Eco-friendly" - "always connected" cars: - Downsizing: "bigger is better" is no more the mantra for luxury cars - Hybrid cars: combining high performance with low emissions aiming to attract wealthy but ethical consumers - Go electro: luxury electric cars gaining market share, especially in US - User-centric connected vehicles able to incorporate the overall digital lifestyle • Digital and social media leading to virtual word-of-mouth are increasingly important drivers of decision making 36
  • 37. "Sky is the limit" in spirits while wine moving towards entry-to-luxury products Luxury Wines & Spirits Market Trend (€B) Key Industry Macro-Trends WINES +8% +12% +15% Trends by Segment 51 Spirits 25% Fine Wine 75% 2012 • In traditional European markets, priceconscious consumers have sought to explore the value of entry-to-luxury wines • Big champagne brands under pressure in traditional markets, being challenged by more affordable wines (e.g. Prosecco, Franciacorta) • Budding demand uncovered in the world's emerging markets of Russia, Brazil, China, Mexico and Nigeria SPIRITS • Continuous up-trading towards luxury and super luxury products • BRICs, Eastern Europe, LATAM and MEA becoming high growth markets due to liberalization of trade norms and rising income level • Innovation as mantra in the sector: redefinition of the core – creation of new blends, formats and targeted products 37
  • 38. Healthy growth in luxury hospitality although capped by US$ devaluation Luxury Hôtellerie Market Trend (€B) +9% +15% • Revenue per available room improving driven by strong occupancy (above prior peak) and higher average daily rate Trends by Segment 127 127 Absolute 23% Leisure 23% Aspirational 23% 2012 • Overall market decelerating after 2012 rebound mainly due to US$ devaluation (11% growth at constant exchange rates) • Business segment driving growth, with strong preference for absolute luxury hotels +18% Accessible 54% Key industry Macro-Trends Business 77% 2012 • Supply expected to be almost flat also as a result of renovations -China slowing down, with cities such as Beijing and Shanghai already over-supplied • Key trends in the sector -"Back home": next generation of wealthy travelers will increasingly ask for a room experience that reminds them their own home -Digitalization: iPads and touch screen phones from which guests can control the entire room -Spas and fine dining (e.g. Michelin-starred) to become an important differentiator 38
  • 39. In-home consumption driven by healthy food. Restaurants still in a weak phase Luxury Food Market Trend (€B) +3% +8% +5% Trends by Segment 38 Restaurants 46% Beverages 31% Food 23% Key Industry Macro-Trends • Luxury restaurants still suffering -Value-for-money first: restaurants are increasingly canny about giving good value rather than risk raising menu prices -Shift to fine in-home dining: use of preprepared fresh ingredients to create restaurant-quality meals at home increasingly overcoming restaurants • Beverages gaining market share -Bottled water best performer in the global beverage marketplace as a healthy alternative to carbonated soft drinks • Gourmet food: healthy but flavorful -Localized eating: food to come from walking distance -Healthy food: such as gluten-free items, organic products and vegan food -Ethnic tweak: discover the flavor possibilities of global ingredients beyond traditional roles in "ethnic" cuisine 2012 39
  • 40. Design Furniture market stable, suggesting a net downward trend High-End Furniture Market Trend (€B) +3% +0% +5% Key Industry Macro-Trends • Design furniture market in a slow downward trend -Lighting segment outperforming other categories • Market supported by new channels -Contract: yachts, hotels and luxury residences are increasingly interesting for design brands -Online: dedicated platforms to shorten route-tomarket Trends by Segment 18 Outdoor 10% Kitchen 10% Lighting 14% Bathroom 16% Living & Bedroom 49% • Export and new markets: with declining European domestic consumption, export is crucial to offset crisis -China and Russia are the most attractive markets pushed by strong real-estate • Macro-trends in the sector: -Entry price: simplified collection and/or more affordable raw materials to introduce entry price lines of high-end design brands -Go green: environment sustainability as a key theme in new collection development  100% biodegradable plastic  LED-based lighting 2012 40
  • 41. Good performance of the Lighting sector pushed by LEDs technology innovation MARKET GROWTH BY PRODUCT SEGMENT, 2011-2013E (%) Living & Bedroom: 9,1B€ - Strong relationship with fashion: new brands entering the category - Hotel inspiration, turning bedroom into a relaxing suite Bathroom: 3,0B€ - New partnerships with famous designers and architects - Green vocation aiming to use precious but sustainable materials Lighting: 2,7B€ CAGR 11-13E - LEDs market still registering a boom also driven by lower prices (~ down 50% in two years) and higher efficiency - Incandescent lights constantly losing market share Kitchen: 1,9B€ - Strongly related to real estate activity, and still suffering in Western Europe - Major trends: earth friendly, high tech, colorful, designed for fresh, healthy food preparation Outdoor: 1,8B€ - Outdoor becomes a natural extension of the house, incorporating seat walls, water features, … - Lower investments required vs. internal design 41
  • 42. Yachts market flattening, with positive signs from emerging markets Luxury Yachts Market Trend (€B) +5% +2% -18% Trends by segment 2,4 €B Over 15M€ 0,8 €B 7M€ - 15M€ 0,7 €B 3,5M€ - 7M€ 2,7 €B 750k€ - 3,5M€ 2012 0% Key Industry Macro-Trends • Growth slowdown in 2012 confirmed by a flat nominal performance expected in 2013 • At constant currency, expected positive performance boost by increasing US consumer confidence and growing purchases from USD-linked currencies • "Superyacht" segment as the most dynamic in all geographies, driven by rise of Chinese spending in the industry • Emerging markets are THE source for growth: -Doubling-down in Chinese spending, with major customization to match local tastes (interiors) and requirements (exteriors) -Growing Brazilian market, already accustomed to the yachting culture -Booming Middle East 42
  • 43. Lens on consumer is increasingly important to anticipate trends and behaviors Generations How old is the consumer? Nationalities Where the consumer is from? Spending power & attitude What the consumer (can) buy? Lifestyle How the consumer lives (luxury)? 43
  • 44. Understanding consumer and aligning the business accordingly will be the luxury "mantra" for next decade All functions to be consumer-educated and evaluated through consumer KPIs Continuous business monitoring through consumerdedicated KPIs READY-toCONSUMER ORGANIZATION PERFORMANCE MEASUREMENT Front-line to be enhanced as key touch-point with consumers and to be educated to customercentric culture STRATEGY DEFINITION & PLANNING CONSUMER EXECUTION THROUGH EXCELLENT FRONTLINE Strategic thinking to be structured by consumer segments as additional key business driver Collection development, merchandising COLLECTION structure and DEVELOPMENT & buying must MERCHANDISING consider target consumer segments RETAIL NETWORK DEVELOPMENT Network development and store planning to be defined according to the purchasing behavior of consumer who will visit the store 44
  • 45. Claudia D’Arpizio, Partner Bain’s Luxury Goods Practice Claudia D’Arpizio is a Partner at Bain & Company. She is a leading member of the firm’s Global Consumer Products and Retail Practices, and leads Bain’s Luxury Goods Practice. For almost 20 years, Claudia has advised multinational clients, mainly in fashion and luxury goods. She has extensively worked on issues relating to business unit strategy, sales and marketing, product and service adjacencies, channel strategy, new product development, innovation, acquisitions and divestitures, performance improvement and organizational changes. Claudia D’Arpizio Claudia is the lead author of the Bain’s Yearly Luxury Study, developed since 1999 in cooperation with Altagamma, the trade association of the Italian luxury brands. This study, based on the analysis of an extensive panel of worldwide luxury brands, is periodically updated and has become one of the most valued and cited sources of market information in the luxury industry. Claudia is a globally recognized expert in luxury and in 2009 was named by the Consulting Magazine one of the “Top 25 Consultants in the World”. Claudia is frequent speaker and writer on luxury goods strategy and she is extensively quoted in Italian and international media: Il sole 24 ore, La Repubblica, Il Corriere della Sera, The Wall Street Journal, US, Europe and Asia editions, Financial Times, New York Times, The Economist, Newsweek, Reuters, Bloomberg, Associated Press, WWD, Fortune, Washington Post, International Herald Tribune, National Post Business Magazine, Boston Globe, The Time and Dow Jones Newswire. Claudia lives between Rome and Milan. 45
  • 46. Bain contacts For a copy of the study or to schedule an interview with Claudia D’Arpizio, please contact: INTERNATIONAL PRESS • Cheryl Krauss at email: cheryl.krauss@bain.com or +1 646 562 7863 • Frank Pinto at email: frank.pinto@bain.com or +1 917 309 1065 at email: valeria.falcone@bain.it or +39 06 85250 350 ITALIAN PRESS • Valeria Falcone 46