Basic Fashion Business Series - Developing Collection

Developing A Collection
Basic Fashion Business Series
Sadikin Gani - Satusatu.id

Introduction / What is Collection / Collections and
Their Influence Collection / Designed for Different
Market / Specialist Collections / Research Process /
Understanding Trend / Line Planning / Costing and
Pricing / Presenting

Framework
Social,
Cultural,
Economic and
Political
Dynamics
Technology
InnovationDesigner Customers
Collection
Fashion Industry
Trend (Fashion + Business)

Starting Point
+ Processes
RESEARCH DEVELOPMENT EDITING PRESENTATION
All designers go through the same stages
when developing a collection.
Elinor Renfrew and Colin Renfrew, 2009, p. 6.

A group of garments conceived and
designed, released and marketed, for a
particular season by a design house.
Jay Calderin, 2013, p. 20.
What is Collection? A grouping of outfits or looks that are
presented in a variety of ways, from catwalk
presentations to online web pages.
An assortment of garments, accessories or
associated products that are linked
together in a defined way (season,
silhouette, colour, ect.).
John Hopkins, 2012, p. 142.
A range of garments,
accessories or products that are
designed and produced for
sale to retailers or direct to
customers
A garment is a piece of clothing; used especially in contexts where you
are talking about the manufacture or sale of clothes
Clothing is the generic raw materials of what a person wears.
Apparel refers to garments made of fabric, knits, leather or other
wearable materials.

Any successful or financially
viable collection requires an
enormous amount of research,
investigation and planning.
Processes
Successful designers have a clear (1)
understanding customers’ needs as
well as (2) understanding their position in
a highly competitive market.
Research and Development
Identifying the Customer
Creativity versus Wearability
Trend Forecasting
Archiving
Editing Collection
The Team
Showing the Collection

Research
A vital component of both business
and marketing.
For a fashion company to be able to determine
its future business direction and marketing
strategy, it will need to continuously gather,
analyse and integrate information obtained
from a diverse range of business, fashion and
market sources (Harriet Posner, 2016, p. 68)
Help to eradicate false
assumptions, expose potential risks
and ensure that decisions are
underpinned by relevant and
current data (Ibid, p. 68).

Research
Primary Research for fashion design refers
to original sources or materials that are
collected by the designer.
Secondary Research for fashion design is
the use of previously gathered material:
published images, text or other data. Also
include fashion forecasting publications
and web-based subscription services that
are offered to the fashion industry.
John Hopkins, 2012, p.144.
Design + Market

Research
OBSERVATION
TRENDS
STREET STYLE /
SUBCULTURES
FASHION
FORECASTING
DIRECTION
FASHION
AND ART
INSPIRATION
Fashion - Daywear, eveningwear,
menswear, outwear, athletic
apparel
Accessories - Shoes, bags, jewelry,
hats, eyewear, hosiery, belts, gloves
Beauty - Models, hair, makeup,
tattoos, piercing, fitness
Swatches - Color, texture, pattern,
decoration, fastening
Silhouette - Architecture, furniture,
sculpture, dance, theater
Art - Painting, drawing, photography,
telebision, film, animation, music,
celebrity
Technology - Internet, blogging,
communication devices, music players,
hardware
Transportation - Cars, motorcycle,
boats, trains, airplane
Categories +
SubcategoriesResource Files

Developing
Design
Personal Inspiration +
Concept
Look at: film, exibition,
galleries, museum, books,
magazine, architecture,
photography, theatre, travel,
the internet
Research Direction
Look at: textile view, view on
colour, bloom, worth global
style network and other
forecasting companies,
international textiles, the
internet
Research
Look at: trade fairs, trade
exhibitions, directional retail
report, comparative retail
report if you have a product
to begin with, graphic,
promotional styling
Design Development
on paper
Look at: shape/silhouette,
volume, proportion, scale,
exaggeration, cut/
construction, colour
combinations
Textiles
Look at: colour, print, pattern,
surface decoration, texture,
weaves, hand printing,
combinations of two or more
of the above
Technical Development
in 3 Dimension
Look at: color combinations,
samples of finishes, sample of
details, fabric finishes, pattern
cutting, working on the stand
with the fabric - draping,
pleating, sculpting
Product development is an integral and
interesting part of design. It requires a
careful balance between maintaining
integrity and point of view as a designer
on the one hand and selling clothes on
the other. The two are not mutually
exclusive. Successful designers stay
aware of the marketplace as they
develop each collection.
Mary Gehlhar, 2008.

Design Process
COLOUR
TEXTURE
UNDERSTANDING
FABRIC
CONSTRUCTIONSILHOUETTEDEVELOPMENT
PROPORTION PROTOTYPE
EMBELISHMENT

Detail (mini)
Small buttons embossed
with the shape of a rose
are used as a functional
detail.
Three dimensional (midi)
A silk rose manufactured as
a literal expression of the
theme is used as
decoration
Overscale (maxi)
Fabric is printed with an
image of roses so big that it
becomes abstract when
wrapped around the body
Design Process
DEVELOPMENT

Alexander Wang
Spring/Summer 2017
Design Process
DEVELOPMENT

Design Process
Understanding
Colour
Cultural
Nomenclature
The Senses
Psycology
Physiology
COLOR
Primary - Red, Yellow, Blue
Secondary - Orange, Green, Purple
Neutrals - Black, Grey, White
Colour is a fundamental consideration in the
design process. It is often the first element
that is noticed about a design and has a huge
impact in how that garment or collection is
perceived. Colour is most often the starting
point of the design process.

Design Process
TEXTURE

SILHOUETTE
Design Process

Design Process
PROPORTION
Proportion refers to the linear sub-division of
objects and shapes, and concerns the balance
of shape, volume, colour, fabric, texture and
scale. The combinations of these elements
make the design of garments inӾnitely
diverse.
The Golden Mean
5:8 Proportion
The idea of a “golden mean” was developed
by taking actual measurements of ancient
sculpture where it was found that a 5 : 8
proportional relationship usually
existed between the sections of which
these figures were composed.
There is a general consensus that these proportions
are also pleasing when applied to other
areas of art and design, for example the
composition of paintings.

Design Process
PROPORTION
Artistic balance can be divided into
two types: symmetrical and
assymmetrical.
Symmetry is achieved by an equal
distribution from the centre of impact and
volume.
Asymmetry can be achieved in three
ways: by equal volume and unequal
impact, by unequal impact and equal
impact or by unequal volume and
unequal impact.
Equal volume
and unequal
impact
Unequal volume
and unequal
impact
Unequal impact
and equal
impact

Haute couture
Ready-to-Wear
The Origins of Ready-to-Wear
Luxury Brands
Contemporary Designers
Mass Market
The Supplier
Developing Mass-market Collections
Designer Collaborations
Celebrity Collaborations
Home Shopping
E-tailing / Online Retail
Designed for
Different Market
Specialist
Collections
Children’s Wear
Baby wear
Toddlers
Footwear and Accessories
Origins
Footwear
Bags
Knitwear
Fashion Jewellery
Corporate Collections
Capsule Collection

Terima Kasih
Sadikin Gani
www.satusatu.id / www.theactualstyle.com
@sadikingani
sadikingani@satusatu.id / sadikingani@theactualstyle.com
0815-7321-8225

Basic Fashion Business Series - Developing Collection

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