4. 57. Roasted Stuffed Quail7/7
6 small or 4 large quail
8 ounces Farmers cheese (the cheese was made by me) (2 ounces per bird)
8 walnut size chucks of beef marrow
8 thin slices fresh organic bacon (2 per bird)
8 bay leaves (I added Rosemary (Rosmarinus Officinalis) another herb that was common
to kitchen garden)
Sea salt
Ground black pepper8
Period Recipe:
Pluck them dry, then remove the crop and innards, and singe them over a smoke-free fire,
and skewer them with slices of fat and bay leaves between them, and fill their cavities
with fine rich cheese and beef morrow; eat them with fine salt, and bring them to table
covered (to keep warm) between two bowls or plates. (VT Maz Scul 97)
Notes:
Salt and Pepper the insides of the quails and stuff each one generously with a sprig of
Rosemary and Farmers cheese. Then wrap each bird with 2 slices of bacon, on the breast
and on the back of each quail, and fasten with toothpicks or twine.
In period these would have been skewered and roasted over a fire. For my cooking I
placed the birds on a wire rack and placed in a roasting pan in the oven. Cook them in a
preheated hot oven (400 degrees) for 20 to 25 minutes, checking frequently to make sure
they do not overcook, and turning them once about halfway the cooking time. When they
are nice and brown, serve them with the pan juices and sprinkled with salt. By using the
Organic Bacon I did not need the bone marrow, and choose Rosemary instead of Bay
Leaf as I felt that the flavor fit better with the quail & the fresh cheese.
B. Fennel and Leeks with Saffron7
2 1/4 pounds Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
2 large Leeks
2 ounces salt pork or blanched pancetta (organic bacon also works for this dish)
1 egg
1 pinch saffron (Crocus Sativus) (a dozen threads)
Sea salt to taste
7
Scully, Terence, “The Viandier of Taillevent”, Canada: University of Ottawa Press, 1988, pages 284`285,
items 45, 97.
8
Redon, Sabban, Serventi, “The Medieval Kitchen”, Chicago, Ill.: The University of Chicago Press, 1993,
page 63,75,113.
5. Wash the fennel, thinly slice the white bulbs, do the same with the leeks (do not use the
tops). Wash the Fennel and Leeks under running water. Cut up the pork in small pieces
and cook in a pan until it begins to brown. Add the fennel and leeks and stir. Add ¾ cup
of water and some salt. Cook, covered, over low heat for about 30 minutes, depending on
how soft you like your vegetables, and I prefer to cook mine to still have a slight crunch.
Beat an egg with the saffron and set aside to infuse. Just before serving, stir some of the
hot juices from the vegetables into the eggs and saffron mixture, off the heat, pour the
egg mixture into the pan of vegetables and mix well. Serve hot or warm.
Notes:
This recipe was pretty easy to follow; I choose to use organic bacon to complement the
quail.
Another source of this recipe is called “Finocchio” (Libro Della Cocina), Mediterranean
Cuisine by Barbara Santich, page 119. This version is very similar to the one above,
except that the leeks and fennel is pan fried in olive oil with the pork.
Footnote: 3
6. Savory Cheese, Pear Cheese, Farmers Cheese, Fresh Butter, and Wheat
Bread
“My Lady of Middlesex makes excellent slipp-coat Cheese of good morning milk,
putting Cream to it. A quart of Cream is the proportion she useth to as much milk, as
both together make a large round Cheese of the bigness of an ordinary Tart-plate, or
cheese-plate; as big as an ordinary soft cheese, that eh Market women sell for ten
pence…”9
Farmers Cheese (Neufchatel)
1-gallon whole milk (non-homogenized)
4 ounces of mesophilic cheese starter culture (can also use buttermilk or an 8 ounce
container of plain yogurt that contain a live culture)
1 pint of heavy cream (I did not need to add this since I used organic whole milk that has
been low temperature pasteurized but not homogenized)
4-8 drops of Rennet
1/3 cup of water
*The cheese that I have made here is also used in the filling for the quail, the cheese
tart, and the 3 types of Farmers cheese.
Step One: making the Mesophilic starter:
Sterilize a clean one-quart canning jar and its cover by placing them in boiling water for
five minutes. Cool them and fill the jar with fresh skim milk, leaving ½ inch of head-
space. Cover the jar tightly with its sterilized lid.
Put the jar in a big deep pot with the water level at least ¼ inch over the top of the jar lid.
Put the pot on the burner and bring the water to a boil. Note when the water begins to
boil, and let it continue at a slow boil for thirty minutes.
Take the jar out of the water, and let it cool to 72°, away from drafts. (To check the
temperature, use the current room temperature, to avoid contaminating the milk).
Inoculate the milk by adding the contents of the freeze-dried starter culture packet to the
milk (still at 72°) (the starter culture was purchased from a cheese supply company). Add
the power quickly, to minimize exposure to the air. Re-cover and swirl the jar every five
minutes or so, to mix and dissolve the powered culture thoroughly.
Put the jar where the milk temperature for fifteen to twenty-four hours during its ripening
period. Sixteen hours usually does the trick, but can be left for an additional 8 hours.
The culture will have the consistency of a good yogurt. It should separate cleanly from
the sides of the jar, and the surface should be shiny. Taste it. It should be slightly acid
and also a bit sweet. Chill it immediately. You can keep it in the refrigerator for up to
three days before using it. The remaining used produce should be placed in ice cube
trays and frozen for storage (make sure to sterilize the plastic ice cube trays). When
frozen remove from the tray and place in a plastic bag and place back into the freezer.
9
The Project Gutenberg eBook “The Closet of Sir Kenelm Digby”, www.gutenberg.org/files/16441, “To
make Silpp-coat cheese”
7. Each cube is equal to about one ounce of starter and keeps for about a month in the
freezer.
Step Two:
Place milk into large pan. Warm milk using in-direct warming method (I used a large
metal pan in a sink of warm water) raised temperature of milk to 72° F (I found due to the
fact that I tend to keep my house cooler that I needed to warm the milk to 80~85°F). Add
4 ounces of mesophilic starter (four cubes of starter). Add 4~8 drops of Rennet (dilute
Rennet to 1/3 cup of cool water). Let milk sit covered 12 to 18 hours or until a thick curd
has formed.
Pour the curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander and hang to drain for 12 to 24 hours or
until bag has stopped dripping.
Place the curds into a cheesecloth-lined colander and place the colander in a pot. Place a
plate in the colander, resting on the bag of curds. Place a weight on the plate (the weight
of two bricks is sufficient (wrap the bricks in a plastic bag)). Put the cover on the pot and
refrigerate for 13 to 24 hours.
Take the cheese from the pot and place in a bowl. Knead and mold the cheese by hand
into four cheeses. You can add salt to taste and add a variety of condiments if desired
such as chopped chive, chopped garlic, etc.10
Savory Cheese
Take one 1/3 of the amount of the cheese above and add a good handful of Fresh Dill
(Anethum graveolens) (about 3 tablespoons) and a 1/3 of a cup of finely chopped Garlic
(Allium sativum). Place in a container add another tablespoonful of dill to the top and
cover and refrigerate.
Notes:
This cheese is better if you make it 1 week in advance and give the flavor a chance to
reach mature.
Pear Cheese
Take 1/3 of the amount of the cheese above add to this 3 ounces of sieved pears, 1 ounce
of pea juice, and one ounce each minced pears and apricots. Place into a covered
container and refrigerate.
Observations:
The flavor on the Pear Cheese is very mild and a more flavorful fruit might have been a
better choice such as apricot or a tart apple.
10
Carroll, Ricki & Robert, “Cheese making made easy”, United States: Capital City Press, 1996, page
36~37
8. Notes:
The flavor of this cheese is slightly sweet and very light.
Farmer’s cheese or soft cheeses were some of the earliest and easiest cheese to make. In
period they would have left whole milk to warm over night by the fire, they also added
things like nettle juice, acid (vinegar or lemon juice) to cause the milk to callboard.
Neufchatel is a Norman style cheese; it is believed that it was first mentioned in a text
from the year 1035 A.D. in the Neufchatel-en-bray countryside. The cheese can
definitely be documented in 1543 in the ledgers of Saint-Aman Abby of Rouen where the
cheese was called Neufchatel.11 The book was “A Proper newe Booke of Cokerye.
Other sources used for making the cheese included Tournaments Illuminated Issue #143,
Summer 2002, “Cheese making at Home”, by Bryn Smith pages 19~23.
3
11
Norman Cheeses, www.formages.org/fnd/fdn_neufcatel_en
9. Cheese Tart (Tart de Bry)12
Original:
174. Tart de Bry. Take a crust ynche depe in a trap. Take yolkes of rawe & chese
ruayn & medle it & pe yolkes togyder. Do perto powdour ginger, sugar,
safroun, and salt. Do it in a tarp; bake it & serue it forth.
Translation:
Make a pie crust an inch deep in pie pan. Take yolks of eggs raw and autumn cheese and
mix it and the yolks together. Do there to powder ginger, sugar, saffron, and salt. Do it
in a pie shell, bake it and serve it forth.
Step one:
Tart Shell
2 cups of Organic White Flour
¼ cup Lard
2 tablespoons butter (butter made by me)
Buttermilk (Just enough liquid to make a firm dough), by product of making the butter.
Pinch salt
Combine flour, salt, lard, and butter in a large bowl. Cut in lard and butter into the flour
and forms pea size balls. Add enough buttermilk to form a form ball. Be careful not to
over work the dough because the curst will be tough.
Let it rest, place dough in a lightly greased pie pan forming by hand making sure it is
even in thickness. Place tart shell in a 400° oven for 15 minutes or until lightly brown.
Step two:
Filling
4 Egg yolks
16 ounces of Farmers Cheese (made by me)
½ teaspoon Ginger (Zingiber Officinale) or to taste filling should have a slight bite
1/3 cup Sugar
A pinch of saffron (Crocus Sativus) about 12 threads
A pinch of sea salt
Cream together sugar, eggs, salt and ginger, when smooth add cheese in small amounts
till mixed (by mixing by hand you may have some small lumps of cheese). Place filling
12
Heiatt, Constance and Sharon Butler, “Curye on Inglish: …Forme of Cury,” New York, The Early
English text Society, 1985, 174
10. in the tart shell and bake in a 375° oven for 20 to 25 minutes or until the pastry is golden
brown and the filling has set. Serve warm or cold.
The original recipe called for “Chese Ruayn” a soft cheese. 13
Butter
½ gallon of half & half
½ gallon of heavy whipping cream
Let the cream and half & half come to room temperature. Place in a butter churn, agitate
the mixture till the product passes thru all stages and separates into buttermilk and a
yellow mass of butter. Separate the (save the buttermilk) butter and place in a bowl and
add salt to taste, kneed the butter till no more whey will separate from the butter (The
dryer you can get the butter the longer it will keep). Place in a covered dish and
refrigerate.
Wheat Bread Footnote: 3
4 cups of stone ground whole-wheat flour
2 tablespoons sugar
½ to 1 cup of warm buttermilk
2 teaspoons dry yeast
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon olive oil
13
Translation of tart de Bry, www.godecookery.com
11. Combine dry ingredients. In a separate bowl add 1/3 of a cup of warm milk and sugar
and yeast to proof. When yeast has proofed add to dry ingredients and add the remaining
liquid and mix by hand. If mixture is too dry add a little more liquid, if mixture is to wet
add a little more flour. When mixture makes a firm ball (not sticky) Kneed by hand for
10 to 15 minutes. Place dough in a greased bowl and cover, place in a warm area. Let
the dough rise till it is about double in size. Turn out of the bowl and lightly kneed,
divide into thirds and let rise a second time. When risen for the second time bake in a
pre-heated oven (350°~375°). Bake for 45~55 minutes or until golden brown, when
thumped with index and thumb the loaf will have hollow sound. Place on a rack and let
cool.
Orange Barley Water
2 cups of hulled barley
4 cups of water
1 orange
In a large bowl mix barley and water and let it sit over night. Separate the barley and the
water. To the water add the juice of the orange and the zest. Serve cool or room
temperature.
Buttermilk
Cool the buttermilk and serve (this is not the type of buttermilk you buy in the store,
originally buttermilk was what was left after making of butter).
Conclusion:
On the following pages you will see additional examples of people enjoying small meals.